Whisky of the Week — The Factory

Glengoyne's NAS Cask Strength replaced the 10YO Cask Strength version. Now up to batch 3, how does it compare to the Aberlour and Glenfarclas cask strength sherry monsters of preceding weeks? Read on...The lack of colouring or chill filtration is clearly stated on the only place it matters; the label of the bottle! Off to a good start Glengoyne. Comprised of some young and some older whiskies from both first fill and refill sherry (Oloroso I believe) casks, bottled at 58.2%.Available in the summer of 2015 from Dan Murphy at $99AU, which, at current exchange rates is less than it costs in Scotland; pretty good value. Nick's have the 12 year old version for $199AU; this I have not tried.

Colour: Muscat. Nose: Oloroso sherry, damp straw, licorice, sultanas, rosehip, apricots and white pepper. A sip is instantly mouthfilling; silky, creamy mouthfeel. Oh, this is good! Fine Pedro Ximenez sherry, lashings of dark fruit, oak, dates. Coats the tongue, infiltrates every corner of the mouth before an extended spelunking expedition down the throat. Imagine the perfect christmas cake, fresh from the oven, moist, hot, yes, pleasantly hot. Only needs a drop of water as a catalyst to release a dark fruit flavour onslaught that lingers on and on and on.....exquisite toffee now, laced with macadamia nut...This is developing magnificently in the glass. At 58.2% ABV it's hot but in a comforting way. It envelopes the senses, warms to the bone. Two drams while I write and my face feels like I'm relaxing by a roaring fire, the radiated heat lulling me into contemplation. So satisfying, ah, serenity. This is what good whisky is about; it evokes memory; sensory and experiential. It warms the soul. It stimulates and challenges the senses. This is an excellent dram. Its youth manifests as a fresh flavour, er, not explosion, a reaction. It develops, as if in slo-mo, in the mouth, allowing one to experience every nuance of the experience. Glengoyne have used some good casks here. I've just poured my third (generous) dram and so, my friends, my written appreciation shall now end and I shall retreat to the porch to watch this evenings moon rise and contemplate it's magnificence, faithful hound by my side. That's the sort of dram this is. 89/100

William Crampton

Hitch shamelessly quaffs the unquaffable.

A'BUNADH: "the origin" in Gaelic. Apparently, a return to traditional methods of the 19th century, which is not at all marketing flannel and really, truly, the complete unembellished truth. Honest.

A'bunadh is available (in the summer of 2015) from most online retailers for around 70USD or 110AUD locally at Nicks in Melbourne and a little more at numerous other Australian retailers.

Colour: Mahogany. There is nothing on the label to confirm a lack of artificial coloring so it must be assumed that the seductive hue is not entirely natural. "NON CHILL-FILTERED" is prominently displayed and I can't imagine Aberlour would not also proudly declare "NATURAL COLOUR" if this was indeed so. I usually water this beastie down to about 45% ABV, although it is still quite palatable at full strength, should you care to try it, which I suggest you do. I find as dilution increases it's flavour and smell are disproportionately diminished, so experimentation will, as usual, be required to find a dilution that suits your taste. Don't be shy with the H2O though; youth and strength need some taming.

Nose: Oh my! Quite volatile even when watered; solvent, sniffing glue...O-K; it needs some time in the glass. Ten minutes later it is much more approachable. Dark fruits, heavy Oloroso, raisins, pipe tobacco cascading into butterscotch, oak and moist cigar. On the palate: hot, chewy, nutty (almond and Brazil), rum & raisin chocolate. Blackberry jam. A hint of cinnamon. More water conjures tea and caramel chews. Fades quickly to a faint apple,licorice and (I kid thee not) burnt toast finish.

I am enjoying batch 51 more than the previous bottle I purchased(batch 39). It's youthfulness is offset by the freshness and intensity of its flavour but, for me, it falls short of the other NAS Sherry Bombs currently under Hitch's protection. While it certainly has no place alongside aged sherry masterpieces from the likes of Glendronach and Glen Garioch I'm sure I'll buy another, sometime.

A'bunadh has become an iconic single malt sherry monster. It is most certainly worth the price of admission. Aberlour A'bunadh is an essential sojourn on your whisky journey, yet one from which you will move on; without remorse. 84/100

William Crampton

Glengoyne Cask Strength Batch 3 58.2% ABV 2015

Aberlour A'bunadh Batch 51 60.8% ABV 2015