Three Young Morays 40% ABV 2015

The West Brewery was founded in 1828 and operated until 1897, when it was converted into a whisky distillery with two stills. Thus Glen Moray was born. The Speyside distillery nestles on the banks of the  river Lossie (from where it draws its water), just outside the city of Elgin. Glen Moray was owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey until 2008 when it was purchased by La Martiniquaise. This period saw the arrival of various cask finishes, possibly as LVMH also owned Glenmorangie at that time. Now with four stills, Glen Moray has positioned most of its products at the budget end of the market, although older bottlings do sell for a lot of coin. All their whiskies are bourbon cask matured. 

The Glen Moray distillery. 

These three single malts are all sub-$50AU; decent malts for the price of a blend. The lack of fluoro-orange fake-tan hue suggests little or no added colouring, although, that is not claimed on the labels so can not be assumed. The whisky does look natural though. The darkest of the trio is the Chardonnay cask variant but even that looks like it truly did emerge from a Chardonnay cask with no further colour enhancement. The pink blush of the Port Finish isn't something I can imagine a whisky manufacturer even wanting to fake so kudos to Glen Moray. I just wish we could read about it on the label. All are bottled at the minimum allowable 40% ABV. They aren't expensive I suppose but I can imagine the Chardonnay cask in particular benefiting immensely from a more whisky/less Lossie bottling. The labels/packaging are in dire need of an update. They don't do justice to the content of the bottles and the staff at my local supplier couldn't tell the difference between the Classic and the Port Finish. Then again, they did have their heads up their arses. I added just a few drops of water to all three Morays for this tasting.  

The Lossie River. Most of the contents of your Glen Moray originated here. 

Let's start with the Glen Moray Elgin Classic. Selling for about $42AU, only Glen Grant sell a cheaper single malt in Australia (and then only by a dollar). A no age statement (NAS) whisky, it tastes about six years old to me and seems to be reasonably consistent. So why not call it a six year old? There are some great six year old whiskies! I digress. Let's see how good, or otherwise, the penultimate budget malt is.

Colour: Yellow gold. Nose: Herbal, grapefruit, vanilla, butterscotch, ginger and white pepper. Quite pleasant. More butterscotch and citrus on the palate, green tea, bitter-sweet, a little rock salt and a delightful cinnamon/mace finish.Forty bucks or so? Bargain.

80/100

Well, what happens when we put it in a port pipe for 8 months? Read on:

The Cooper's work is never done; Port casks being prepared for more interesting contents. 

Another NAS Glen Moray, the Elgin Classic Port Cask Finish will set you back a fiver more than the plain old Classic. 

Colour: Pink Champagne. I kid you not. Nose: Strawberry, vanilla,raspberry and lemon. A veritable red fruit basket with a citrus tang. The palate is somewhat more substantial than the Classic although, as one might expect, the flavours are similar, with an added layer courtesy of the Port finish. The finish suits the whisky well; not overwhelming but an interesting addition to the flavour profile. Mmmm, lovely, not complex but all those sweet red fruits counterpoint the citrus beautifully. Honey appears mid-palate. A little sour/bitter on the finish as the oak kicks in but not in an unpleasant, dead cask, way. The finish is somewhat short but the whole experience is quite pleasant and rather moorish. A good apéritif or summer evening dram. Not at all challenging but very drinkable.

82/100  

28/917 UPDATE: The Port Finish Moray has, I'm afraid, declined significantly. The Pink Champagne colour has faded to the merest hint of a blush and that fresh fruit basket nose is now last weeks lemons, wrapped in newspaper. A definite "dont buy". What a shame. 

75/100

Hitch enjoys a dram or three by the fire. 

Whatever happened to those big, oakey Australian Chardonnays of the 80's and those big, buttery non-oaked Australian Chardonnays of the 90's? They gave way to more fashionable Sauvignon Blanc and the like I suppose. A shame, but still, more for me. I mention this only because I wonder where Glen Moray sourced casks for their Chardonnay Matured 10 Year Old. France? California? One need only look to The New Zealand Whisky Co to see what the availability of good wine casks can do for a whisky. It is important to note that this is a full maturation, not a finish, in Chardonnay casks. The colour of this whisky is exactly what I would expect to see in an older Chardonnay. If Glen Moray have coloured this at all, it was minimally. Unfortunately, it has been chill-filtered. 

Colour: Deep Gold. Nose: Aged Chardonnay, citrus fruits, peach, pear, greengage. Another fruit basket but of a different complexion. Take your time with this one. The nose develops substantially over ten minutes or so. Barely ripe, sour pineapple. Oak, lovely, soft, oak. A very decent nose for a $50 whisky. On the palate: Bordering on decent mouthfeel. Young. Fresh. Sweet shop favorites including a little musk stick. Again, a great counterpoint to the sour/green character of the malt. This works so well. A green malt with a dominant sweetness. Sort of like ice cream and kiwi fruit (which is also a good description of the finish). An interesting, original, summer dram. 

84/100

In conclusion: All of these single malts are good value. The Elgin Classic is a simple, honest and light Green Malt that makes a good summer dram or session malt. The Port Cask Finish version adds a layer of fun like sticking a Redskin sweety in the Elgin Classic. You should buy this one. The Classic is a good value whisky that is cheap but common as muck but the Port Cask is a lovable novelty to be shared. The Chardonnay Cask Matured is the star here. In a Yellow Dwarf kind of way. I don't know of a better single malt (locally available) anywhere near its cost. It's unusual,interesting, available and cheap. Kind of like my first girlfriend, who also made my head hurt the next day. 

William Crampton  

28/9/17 UPDATE: The Port Finish Moray has, I'm afraid, declined significantly. That Pink Champagne colour has faded to the merest hint of a blush and the fresh fruit basket nose is now last week's lemons, wrapped in newspaper. Clearly, those port pipes have had passed their use by date. A definite "don't buy". What a shame. 

75/100

After too much Glen Moray Hitch appears to be feeling a little horse.....




Water,water, everywhere.

The Murrumbidgee River; one of Canberra's water sources and a tributary of the Murray River. 

Everyone but Jim Murray knows that water enhances whisky. How much water? That depends on your taste, the proof, age and style of the whisky. One can now buy water, allegedly bottled fresh from a highland spring, that is specifically suited to your whisky. And if they can sell you that it's the biggest marketing triumph since Bose.

Two triumphal events in the history of marketing the unmarketable and some water.  

But is your local tap water diminishing the smell and taste of your whisky or is bottled water simply a waste of money? Well, comrades, read on; the answer lies ahead. A recent series of gigs took me from Adelaide, to Melbourne, to Canberra within 48 hours. So, being both an intrepid experimenter and hardened skeptic I took the opportunity to secure a sample of tap water from each city, (bottled then refrigerated) a bottle of Evian and filtered Canberra tap water. If you really want a chemical analysis of these I'm sure you can find that information easily. I was not so much concerned what was in the water but what effect it had on the whisky. Unfortunately, my plan to use rainwater as a control was thwarted by the Magpies that decided to take a bath in it. All samples were placed in identical glass containers and stored for 48 hours before being tasted at 20 degrees C. They were also used to dilute four samples of Glenfarclas 15 at a ratio of 4 to 1 whisky to water to determine if there was any practical effect on that middle-aged, water sensitive whisky. I tasted the Glenfarclas myself but our three volunteers tasted the water blind. The samples were identified only by number and the entire test audio recorded. Below is a precis of their comments and mine, exactly as they were recorded. 

Hitch was unable to find so much as a molecule of alcohol and lost interest at this point. 

Sample 1: "Smells like graphite." "Chalky taste." "Slightly gritty but not offensive."

Sample 2: "Looks a little yellow." "Can't smell a thing." "It doesn't taste terrible but a little metallic."                   

Sample 3: "This one is even more yellowish" "Slight acetic acid smell" "Smells like a horse blanket." "Tastes gritty and metallic."                  

Sample 4: "Smells like soil but not as offensive as 3." "OH! 4 is disgusting!" "4 tastes like mud, YUK!"

Sample 5: "No smell at all." "Tastes like clean water." "Mmm, I like this best, certainly!"

In the Glenfarclas 15:

Sample 1: "Oh yeah, that's Glenfarclas 15, lovely stuff, why are we doing this again?"

Sample 2: "Wow, there's a whole heap of flavour from mid-palate missing, it's just gone. I didn't expect that."

Sample 3: "Seriously diminished flavour. Everything from the entry through to the finish."

Sample 4: "Oh, this one has really killed the whisky. It's not just taken flavour away, it's added its own ugliness. Dusky, dirty, cheap" 

Sample 5: "Mmm, we're back,ohh,lovely, Farclas 15 again. As good as 1....Ah, tasting 1 again.....no, just loses a little, very close.....Mmm, this one is the business. Just one more try of 1 and 5...yeah, 5 is delish, just better than 1." 

Loch Lomond. Go to Scotland. It is beautiful. And they have lashings of excellent whisky.

Well, Your Worship, I shall now reveal the identity of the offenders: 

Sample 1: Evian bottled water.

Sample 2: Canberra tap water.

Sample 3: Melbourne tap water.

Sample 4: Adelaide tap water.

Sample 5: Filtered Canberra tap water.

My conclusion? First let me say I was surprised by the results. I love being proven wrong, I really do; it's the scientist in me. The revelation of one's wrongness leads to an expansion of one's knowledge. And that has happened here. Last week I would have opined that tap water was fine and bottled water in whisky is bollocks. For those of you in Canberra, sipping from your melted snow and mountain streams, that isn't far from the truth. For those in Adelaide, however, your whisky experience will be seriously diminished by what is left in the River Murray after everyone else is finished with it and your desalination plant's outpourings regurgitated. I shared a bottle of JW Green label with friends in Adelaide on New Year's Eve and wondered why I wasn't enjoying it. Now I know. In Melbourne, things aren't so bad (except that it ain't Sydney) but still, your water is robbing your whisky of flavour. I did send a minion to Sydney to obtain a water sample for this post but she came back empty handed. I forgave her because she's gorgeous and I'm a pushover but as a kid from Manly I can tell you Sydney water is, at best, not awful.  

Given that a 30ml dram of Glenfarclas 15 will require no more than about 6ml of water (for most folks) that means premium bottled water will cost around 3 cents a dram. Glenfarclas 15 costs around $4.50AU a dram (assuming a bottle purchase) so is another three cents a big ask to ensure your appreciation of it? I have no doubt, however, that for the serious whisky drinker, whisky or rum bar, well filtered water is not only a good idea but a necessity. If that isn't practical, leaving tap water to evaporate off its chemical nasties for at least a day or two also works well.

Hey, we did the experiment. 

William Crampton      

bennevis.jpg

Ben Nevis: I snapped this shortly before being torn apart by midges. A species that aspires to, but falls well short of, being as objectionable as my ex-wife.