El Dorado Rum

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My children are fish. Well, more accurately, marine mammals. They started snorkeling as soon as they could swim, Scuba at twelve and by fourteen had quite a few dives in two countries under their weight belts and Advanced Open Water certification. So when they wanted to do a Nitrox (high O2 content gas) course, I just asked where. I think I actually heard my credit card groan and snap when they answered "The Great Barrier Reef". 

My daughter in pursuit of a banded sea krait. 

My daughter in pursuit of a banded sea krait. 

What could be a more appropriate dram for three nights at sea (recounting/embellishing the days adventures), than the traditional maritime spirit; rum! Fortunately, a couple of bottles of El Dorado Demerara rum had arrived the previous week (complete coincidence of course). El Dorado 12 and 15 year old are blended rums distilled using a combination of stills; single and double wooden pot stills and Coffey stills. They are then "married" in bourbon casks during maturation.

A dangerous sea creature! And a shark.

A dangerous sea creature! And a shark.

The 15 allegedly contains rums of up to 25 years old, which is a very long time in the hot climate of Guyana. The 12 can be had for about $80-100AU whereas the 15 is $100-150AU. In addition to three years extra maturation, the 15 also has a higher ABV, at 43%.  

Hitch readies dive gear in case of rum overboard.

Hitch readies dive gear in case of rum overboard.

 El Dorado 12 40% ABV

Colour: Chestnut Ollorosso.

Nose: Bourbon, lots of it. Oak, lime, orange zest, allspice and a hint of tea tree oil on a backdrop of damp hessian; complex and interesting.

Palate: Rich, ripe fruits/Demerara sugar sweetness balanced by exotic spices and dry oak. Caramel, blackberry, dark chocolate and lingering vanilla in a drying medium-long finish. Divine.  

89/100

No. 1 son about to embark on another underwater adventure. 

No. 1 son about to embark on another underwater adventure. 

El Dorado 15 43% ABV

Colour: Muscat.

Nose: Damp cedar, molasses, overripe banana, wet leather and iodine. Altogether darker and danker than the 12, the 15's nose is quite complex but somewhat muted in comparison. 

Palate: Velvet-smooth mouth-feel. Rich caramel, banana cake, cinnamon, ginger and a hint of cigar smoke. Delicious, opulent, old. Liquid sticky date pudding balanced by dry oak that overtakes the sweetness in a delightfully long finish. The 12's Demerara backbone has morphed into rich dark brown sugar, which analogises the difference between these two rums; the 12 is in its prime, well matured but retaining youthful vibrancy. The 15 has gained refinement and richness at the expense of some complexity and vigour.  

88/100

 

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While the 12 is undoubtedly the more satisfying of this pair, (despite its 3% ABV deficit and lower price) they are both outstanding value. I will buy the 15 again, simply because it's a different experience to the 12. The 15 has been the recipient of the Wray & Nephew Trophy for Best Rum in the World at the International Wine & Spirits Challenge for an unprecedented four years running; an accolade it certainly does not deserve but one which serves to illustrate just how adorable it is. If you'd like to get into sweeter, darker rums, this delightful pair is a good staring point.

William Crampton

Sunset on The Reef. One more dive tonight then it's El Dorado time!

Sunset on The Reef. One more dive tonight then it's El Dorado time!

Dewars 12 Reloaded: "The Ancestor" 40%ABV 2017

Old faithful on the left, to the right, the usurper.

Old faithful on the left, to the right, the usurper.

Dewar's 12 did pretty well in last year's sub-$40 whisky comparison. Its distinctive character, decent nose and a judicious dollop of peat saved it from mediocrity.

Not content to rest on the 12's laurels, or perhaps unable to resist the urge to fix what ain't broke, Bacardi (the owner of Dewar's) has rebranded, and apparently reformulated, Dewars 12 as "The Ancestor". Just like changing the flavour of Coke, what could possibly go wrong? 

Colour: Deep gold. Not skimping on the E150 colour but a little lighter than its predecessor. 

Nose: Peach, Juicy Fruit gum, malt and grapefruit. A little almond but nowhere near as nutty or peaty (in fact there is no peat to be found) as the previous iteration. Very grain driven and much less interesting than it used to be.

Palate: Enters quietly; its presence barely noticed until mid palate whence it delivers a pleasant burst of vanilla, barley and malt, fading to honey and ripe peach with a touch of spice. Nice. Inoffensive. Bordering on insipid. 

I imagine most folks will find this version more appealing than the last. The peat is gone, the sweetness has been turned up until it smells like chewing gum and there is nothing remotely challenging about this whisky. It's more like Chivas than the Dewar's of old. Simple, sweet, mundane:

77/100

William Crampton

Hitch, distressed over the dumbing-down of Dewars, consoled himself with the whole bottle.

Hitch, distressed over the dumbing-down of Dewars, consoled himself with the whole bottle.